A Road Trip

Since we had some business to conduct in Mesa, we decided to go to two new places that were on our “To Try” list. We started heading east on Shea to get to the 101 and got stuck in construction traffic. Our stomachs started rumbling, and we knew we’d never make it to Mesa, so we took a detour to Goldman’s Deli at Indian Bend and Hayden.

For as long as we’ve been in Phoenix, Goldman’s has been our go-to place for good Jewish food. Lately, however, I’ve noticed a sad decline in food quality and quantity. This was confirmed by our pit stop. Ken ordered half a tongue and swiss sandwich for us to share before our real lunch in Mesa. The sandwich was quite skimpy, especially for the price, but this didn’t matter since it wasn’t worth eating. How do you get tough tongue? I started imagining what the cow could have been doing to make it so, but this was particularly unappetizing and not a good path to go down. So I decided it must have been in the cooking. Very sad. We’re not particularly fond of Chompies - our hopes are now with Miracle Mile Deli which is opening this fall at Frank Lloyd Wright and Bell.

We continued on.....and on and on, to Val Vista Drive just north of Baseline and arrived at Pastis Delicatessen and EuroGrille.. It’s divided up into a little Eastern European grocery, a takeout deli which seems to specialize in smoked meats, and a casual, attractive restaurant and bar. The menu has some very interesting items, I read that they’re “Balkan/Mountain Slav”. One of the appetizers is skirt steak served with potato pancakes and garlic spinach with smoked tomato and oregano sauce ($9.25). There are also pierogi, calamari, crab cakes, and muscles (sic) in wine and garlic. Soup changes daily. We shared mushroom soup, very different from what we’re used to, loaded with mushrooms in a fairly thick but not creamy broth and quite spicy. The large bowlful was $4.75, and we didn’t leave a spoonful.

The grilled entrees were a must-have. We split a chevapi sandwich. This is Slavic ground sirloin links served on grilled lepinja bread (which reminded me of the bread Mexican tortas are served on) accompanied by homemade hummus and chopped onions so mild Ken was happy munching them solo. The spice blend in the meat was delicious. There were 8 links, more than enough to share, and not a bad deal at $9.75. Other items from the grill are a 16 ounce rib-eye ($18.75), sudjuk sausage, and portabellas covered with hummus and feta.

There are lots of sandwiches, hot and cold. Bratwurst, pastrami, meatball and sausage subs. Also five or six salads. And more entrees, not from the grill. The specialty dessert is crepes ($5.75) with many fillings available. Not made in-house, but very good looking are the little composed cake/mousse/ganache treats so popular now ($4.50). I have to write the description of one called Paradisio:

Vanilla genoise, mango/passionfruit mousse, coconut

mousse, dark chocolate and cape gooseberry decoration

The service was concerned and personable, the food outstanding, and the price reasonable. Despite the long drive, we’ll happily return.

We decided to do our business errand, then tackle dessert. We were very excited about going to Udder Delights since good ice cream is hard to come by in Phoenix. This little shop, tucked away in a strip mall in Gilbert is co-owned by two people very much into “local first”. In fact, the family of one owns a dairy farm. This may help explain the luxurious richness of the ice cream produced here. The flavors, of which there are 45 (they are rotated throughout the year) are spot-on, too. I was drawn to key lime pie, and found it more satisfying than the pastry version. It was perfectly balanced between sweet and tart, and had graham cracker crumbs mixed in. Ken tasted a chocolate/coffee mix that was so chocolaty it didn’t even need hot fudge.

Currently, Tracy Dempsey, a well known pastry chef is creating desserts for Udder Delights before the opening of her own dessert restaurant. We ordered some banana fudge bread pudding to go with Ken’s ice cream choice. What a combination!!

The shop is tiny, and feels very crowded even when there aren’t lots of people there. It also didn’t strike me as particularly clean, but there was only one employee, so I guess it was hard for her to keep up. Besides, I can overlook almost anything for ice cream this good. I’m glad Udder Delights is so far away. This place is truly dangerous.

We managed to make it safely home despite our carb hangovers. Needless to say, we skipped supper.

Pastis Delicatessen & EuroGrille

1935 S. Val Vista Dr. Mesa

480-926-3354 pastisaz.com

open 7 days, 11-9

Udder Delights

1385 E. Warner Rd. Gilbert

480-507-3859 udderdelightsaz.com

closed Monday

A Whole Meal Experience

We wanted to give an out-of-town friend an interesting dining experience, so we decided to try a northern Indian restaurant in Tempe called The Dhaba. It’s in the India Center on Apache Boulevard. While sharing space with the grocery, it feels entirely separate and is attractively decorated in an interesting shade of green which seems to be a mixture of lime, avacado, and chartreuse. There are orange accent pieces, and the tables are dark brown wood. They’re set with metal chargers and drinking cups. During dinner I came to appreciate the metal cups: they magnify the coldness of the water, and are great to hold against tingling lips.

The menu is quite large, so we nibbled on the papadums and sauces while reading. Under “starters” there are “street treats” such as ambala tiki chaat - potato pancakes served with garbanzo beans, onions, mint and tamarind chutney and yogurt. Marinated chicken wings cooked in the tandoor sounded good, but being great fans of Indian cheese, we went with the paneer fritters. These were nicely cooked, lightly dipped in batter and deep fried, but not very interesting. Next time we’ll go with something more exotic.

There are a large number of vegetarian entrees, and many tempting dishes cooked in the tandoor, but I ordered one of the Dhaba Thalis, a “Whole Meal Experience”. I selected the Maharaja which came with a salad, two kinds of chicken, a curry (I chose lamb), daal, rice pilaf, naan, raita, and dessert. All for $15. Our friend chose a different Thalis, and Ken, bless him, decided to try the goat. Our server said that the goat could be prepared in any manner, but he suggested that it be done in a mint sauce. I couldn’t resist adding an order of Kashmiri naan which had almonds and pistachios and a crackly sugar coating.

The salad arrived first, and was beautifully presented in a papadum basket. The diced cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and mangos were in a light mango vinaigrette. I enjoyed it thoroughly, but at the end of the meal realized that I would have appreciated it much more served after the entree, as a palate refresher.

Our two Whole Meal Experiences arrived, with all the different entrees on a large charger. My two chickens sat on a bed of rice pilaf which had fruits and nuts and was exceptionally good. Each chicken dish was moist and flavorful, which can be tricky when the tandoor is involved. The lamb curry was relatively mild. Actually the spiciest thing on the plate was the raita. Our guest was happily munching away on his whole meal.

The outstanding dish was the goat. The sauce was delicious - a tomatoey base with lots of mint and spices. The meat was actually tender. It must have been braised for hours and hours. The Kashmiri nan was a treat, and provided a nice foil for the varied sauces. All in all, there was a huge amount to eat for a very reasonable price, which I find is not often the case in Indian restaurants. Ken and I couldn’t finish our meals, but Matt can’t stand to see food go to waste so we had no leftovers.

Dessert was a sampling of rice pudding and fried cheese balls. I sampled, but I’ve never been a fan of Indian desserts and these didn’t change my mind. Matt finished them up. The three of us agreed that The Dhaba was a great find.

The Dhaba

1876 E. Apache Blvd. Tempe

480-446-2824

Monday - Friday 11-3 and 5-10

Saturday and Sunday noon - 10

A Preliminary Report

After reading about it in the New Times, we decided to try Avalon Restaurant in south Scottsdale. It’s located next to 3 Palms Hotel at 77th Street and McDowell. The hotel sure doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it has many favorable reviewer’s comments. Avalon, on the other hand, is fairly impressive outside, and even more so inside. It’s decorated in a cooling slate blue color and has interesting tables raised up on a platform, with love-seat seating. One side of the building has garage doors (nicely disguised) which can be raised in the nice weather. Too bad the adjacent patio isn’t shielded from the hotel’s parking lot. Some bushes or a decorative screen would make it a lot more pleasant.

We had wanted late lunch, but only the Happy Hour menu was being served. There were seven items available - we chose the ‘Golden’ Goat Cheese and Fig Plate ($9) and the Crispy Calamari Frittes ($10). Interestingly, some of the items on the Happy Hour menu were more expensive than on the regular menu, and some less. Go figure.

Before our appetizers arrived we were served a mini loaf of bread, appropriately warm, not microwaved. A delicious butter, which had what I think were cherries mixed in, accompanied it. We also ordered a cocktail which resembled sangria on steroids. I liked it so much I drank more than my share, which was probably a good thing since Ken was driving.

The appetizers were attractively plated. The goat cheese had been pan fried and therefore had a crispy outer coating. It was served atop a raspberry gastrique (a thick syrup) and came with candied nuts. At first glance the three little cheese rounds looked like an inadequate amount, but they were very rich and filling. The perfectly fried calamari strips were topped with a Japanese mizzuna (a leafy green) saute and they sat on a pool of intriguing spicy cantaloupe butter. This was really soul satisfying food, with lovely textures and unusual flavors.

As you probably guessed, we couldn’t leave without trying dessert, especially since there was Dark Chocolate Decadence ($8, as were all the desserts). This turned out to be even better than a similar item from Scratch Bakery, which had been our standard of excellence. There were several kinds of chocolate in the dessert, and some cherries in liqueur on the bottom. Again, totally satisfying.

Of course we’ll be going back to try lunch, dinner, and maybe even weekend brunch. Now through at least August, and probably longer, there’s a prix fixe dinner available; three courses for $30, which would be a savings of about $15. Avalon isn’t cheap, but for the quality of the food and ambience, we considered it more than reasonable.

Avalon - “Contemporary American Coastal Cuisine”

7707 E. McDowell Rd.

Scottsdale 480-656-0010

avalon-scottsdale.com

An Offal Review

If you’re easily grossed out, you should probably stop reading here. I’m going to be talking about (shudder) organ meat. To be exact, tripe, tongue and cheek.

Our friend Meg, who is an intrepid eater, told us that Los Mesquites Taqueria in Cave Creek serves these delicacies on the weekends, along with a good helping of live music. Of course you can get less adventurous food too, but why would you?

The tripe comes in the form of menudo, a peppery soup with hominy and slow-cooked pieces of tripe (for those of you who are still hanging in and don’t know, it’s the first or second stomach of the cow). Until eating at Los Mesquites, every bit of tripe I’ve tried has had the taste and texture of rubber bands. Here, it was soft with a buttery flavor which played well with the spicy broth and chewy hominy.

The beef tongue and cow cheek were served up in tacos, accompanied by a fiery sauce, rice and beans. While there’s a slight difference in the texture of these two meats, one slightly less smooth and silky than the other, the flavor, to me, is pretty much the same. Other than to say it’s very mild, I can’t think of a way to describe it (it doesn’t taste like chicken). But it is delicious.

The rest of the menu is typical Sonoran. The chips were interesting - they seemed like a cross between fried wontons, and corn chips. I liked them. A cheese quesidilla was huge and had plenty of cheese, but it didn’t rise above the ordinary. Ken enjoyed his fish soup even though it was a little spicier than he would have liked. Our new foodie friend Marti had chili rellenos. It was nicely prepared, not overbattered and the filling was tasty We all liked the rice, though Ken and I weren’t wild about the beans. This is good, solid Mexican food, but with the exception of the offal, unsurprising.

The margaritas are very good here. They seem to be prepared with fresh lime juice, not the awful mix found in many restaurants. The only dessert offered to us was flan. We shared one- it wasn’t noteworthy. The service was excellent. Joe, our waiter, is a pro and good-naturedly put up with our teasing. Bill Jung, the owner, came over to our table several times to see how we were doing. The prices are quite reasonable and the ambience is funky fun.

I have a suggestion for Bill - a website. That way people would know when and what the entertainment is, and also be able to check out the hours of operation and the menu.

P.S. Marti, we’re glad to have met you.

Los Mesquites Taqueria

37645 N. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek

480-488-0489

Good Deal Greek

If you like Greek food, there’s a very good deal to be had at Saba’s Mediterranean Cuisine. Monday through Thursday between the hours of 2:00 and 6:00 P.M. some appetizers and alcohol are 50% off. The Happy Hour menu has about twelve appetizers, ranging in price from $1.88 to $2.78. There are a number of dips: three kinds of hummus, some excellent baba ghannouj and tsatsiki. More substantial dishes include safiha, which is a pita pizza topped with nicely seasoned ground meat, spinach pie, and falafel. Greek fries topped with feta, dolmas, a feta salad, and something called zatar (which I’ll have to look into next time) round out the menu. We had a really substantial meal for two, including iced tea, for about $16.

I don’t know if Saba’s has changed management, but we found the service to be much more pleasant and efficient than in the past.

Saba’s Mediterranean Cuisine

4747 E. Bell Rd. Phoenix

602-493-4831

sabas-cuisine.com