My newest BFF sandwich

  After reading a glowing review of Gallo Blanco Cafe (located in the Clarendon Hotel) in the New Times (May 26) we knew we had to try it. Normally we’re not great fans of Mexican food, but this is Mexico City style - much more subtle, refined and less spicy hot than Sonoran.

  The menu appears small, but it covers all the bases from breakfast, through lunch, dinner and dessert, with some interesting beverages. We opted for two appetizers to start. Chicharron de Queso ($7)is cheese thinly spread in a frying pan and cooked  ‘til lightly browned and somewhat rigid, then rolled around a cylinder and cooled until it holds its shape. It is served with a pleasantly hot aioli, which complements the chicharron perfectly. By the way, this is the perfect Atkins dish, not a carb in sight. The elote callejero ($4) is a grilled ear of corn sprinkled with cotija cheese and smoked paprika. Generally I’m not a corn lover, but I had trouble sharing this dish with Ken. The chef, from Mexico City by way of the Grand Orange/Postino group knows how to combine flavors so that they bring out the best in each other.

  My newest BFF sandwich, the cochinita torta, is made with pork marinated in orange juice and a few other things that I’d like to know about, cooked til meltingly tender, and served with avacado. The result is so incredibly soothing I wanted to take a nap with it. The serving was generous, enough to share - especially after two appetizers.

  Of course, we couldn’t leave without trying dessert since everything else had been so tasty. We chose crepa con cajeta y platano. Three crepes covered with a mound of sliced banana (I would have preferred cooked plantain, but Ken disagreed), a dollop of cajeta, sprinkled with peanuts and drizzled with caramel. I probably would have liked it a lot more if I wasn’t already satiated and still swooning over the torta. There’s also a homemade chocolate pudding covered with homemade marshmallow fluff. Another time ......

  The service was excellent. Our waitress wasn’t afraid to give her opinion of the various dishes, and came back frequently to see if we were happy.

  Now, for what I didn’t like. The room was very noisy. I think it would be intolerable if filled to capacity. The floor is concrete, and lots of wall and ceiling had been torn out - trendy perhaps, but loud.

Ken described the decor as “upscale Greyhound bus terminal”.

(although there is some mildly interesting art on the walls). The Clarendon Hotel gave me the creeps. It turns out that a reporter was shot just outside the hotel because of a story he was writing.

  I’d be happier if Gallo Blanco were in a different building, but I’ll ignore the hotel’s bad vibes and go back to try lots more things (as long as I can get a torta to go).

Gallo Blanco Cafe in the Clarendon Hotel

401 W. Clarendon Ave. , off Central south of Indian School

Phoenix     602-252-7363