Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Smiling Soul SORRY THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED (6/2010)

We’ve had several excellent meals since our misadventure at Eddie’s House, and these led to an epiphany. When I’m really happy with what I’ve eaten, I leave the restaurant with a smile on my lips and a smile in my soul. Which is the perfect segue to Fat Daddy’s Down Home Kitchen.

Fat Daddy’s is a fairly new soul food restaurant near South Mountain at the corner of 32nd Street and East Baseline in The Shops at the Raven Plaza, a mundane strip mall. Who could guess that big smiles are just an order away. Armed with a Restaurant.com gift certificate, we had to struggle to make our $35 mandatory expenditure. Ken went for the Southern Fried Chicken dinner ($10.99) and I decided on the 3 Meat Combo with brisket, pork ribs and beef ribs ($14.99). I had to settle for pork rib tips instead of the beef ribs since only one type of rib is allowed on a combo plate, Each entree came with two sides and cornbread. We ordered an additional side ($3.49) to up our bill, and we knew we’d be trying one of the desserts ($3.49). We even ordered two ice teas ($1.59). With all this we just squeaked by at $35.50.

After a reasonable wait our platters arrived. The BBQ had a nice sweet/tangy sauce already on it (there was no container of sauce on the table). The ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender. I think they had been simmered before being put in the smoker, a practice which seems to be more common in soul food places than in those which specialize in BBQ. I like them either way. The brisket was nice and juicy, as were the rib tips, which can often have a leather-like texture. Ken’s chicken also was succulent, with crispy skin, a little too salty. Sides came in ramekins so we could put them in the middle of the table for easy sharing. Two were outstanding: coleslaw had a delicious lemony dressing, and fried cabbage with chunks of bacon was surprisingly crunchy and not overly salty. Made -from- scratch yams had a light cinnamon syrup which, happily, didn’t cling to the potatoes, but merely flavored them. The mac and cheese was better than most, but Bobby Q restaurant still has the winner - it’s so buttery rich and cheesy you can only eat a few spoonfuls. Our cornbread was tender, with a touch of sugar. The only disappointing side was corn on the cob, which Ken felt had come from the freezer. The smile was already on my lips, but when the pecan pie arrived my soul did a jig. A tender cookie-like crust held an inch and a half high layer of filling which was nice and boozy and not too sweet. IMHO, this is the best purchasable pecan pie in the Valley.

Fat Daddy’s also does breakfast, which Ken is determined to try on a return visit (it’s available all day). He was salivating at the sight of the waffles which passed by our table. They’re big and golden brown and come with a choice of chicken and gravy, or catfish or whiting, plus eggs and grits ($6.99-$11.99). Of course, you can always order them on the side and then add steak ($11.99), pork chops ($10.99), chicken fried steak ($9.99) or southern grilled ham ($9.99). All these come with eggs, homefries and biscuits. The side waffle is $2.99. Lunch, which starts at !!:00 AM, offers BBQ sandwiches, hot wings, burgers, hot links, and Po’ Boys, most costing $6.99. I suppose I have to mention the other desserts even though I’ll probably never make it past the pecan pie. There’s peach cobbler, sweet potato pie, Momma Carol’s carrot cake, red velvet cake, and waffles with ice cream.

I’m all smiles just thinking about it.

Fat Daddy’s Down Home Kitchen
3220 E. Baseline Rd. Phoenix
602-438-7454
Mon.- Sat. 8AM-9PM Sunday 8AM-6PM
no website

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