Sunday, June 13, 2010

Neighborhood Italian

     If Rosario Ristorante feels like the quintessential neighborhood Italian restaurant, that’s because it is. It’s been in the same spot for 30 years, and until a few years ago it was owned by the same family. When they were ready to sell, one of their loyal customers took up the gauntlet. Although Michelle and her husband completely gutted and redid the interior, the ambience is still that of a long established, timeless place. There’s a red swag on the front windows and wrought iron decorations on the walls. Black tablecloths and nice stemware lend an upscale but not intimidating feel.
     The menu, too, is neighborhood. Nothing unexpected (except for escargots), but pretty much whatever you’d want to satisfy your southern Italian cravings.  We started out with crab-stuffed mushrooms, which the menu warned were spicy. Since it was happy hour, when all appetizers are half price (ditto cocktails), we paid $5.50 for six mushrooms delivered in an escargot dish. They were stuffed with just the right amount of crab mixed in with the bread crumbs, and a little cayenne added a pleasant kick. We had been served some outstanding garlic butter with our bread, and couldn’t resist topping the mushrooms with it.  My entree was eggplant parmigiana, my “test the new restaurant” dish. The eggplant was thinly sliced, breaded and beautifully fried, but there was a strange absence of sauce. The same was true of the spaghetti - well prepared but under-sauced.  I had ordered a side of meatballs and was served a pair of huge ones - these were an unbelievable $3 - with adequate sauce. They were just the way I like them (you can stop snickering now), lots of bread crumbs mixed in to make them nice and tender. Ken had ordered a side of sausage, and that was excellent too. His lasagna was delicious. It was somehow light and substantial at the same time. The only disappointment was the Caesar salad. This was a ghost of a Caesar with an almost tasteless dressing that had never seen an anchovy.  Desserts are house made. We tried the chocolate mousse pie (it was called a cake, but really wasn’t). It was good - you could actually tell it was chocolate. There’s also a fried cannoli.  The espresso machine had broken down, so Ken can’t report about that.
     The prices are quite reasonable, especially for the quality and quantity, as befits a neighborhood restaurant.  My eggplant was $12.95, and Ken’s lasagna $9.95. The most expensive dishes, veal picatta and marsala, and cioppino are $18.95. Fettucini Alfredo and Spaghetti Bolognese are $10.95. Service was excellent. Our waitress, Vanessa, recognized us from her stint at Gino’s Restaurant, one of our favorites. And, you can get a Restaurant.Com certificate. What more could you want? 
     Actually, you could want a 4 course chef’s dinner for $15. This is served on Thursday evening, and it’s content changes every week. Call to see what’s being prepared if you don’t feel like taking a chance.
Rosario Ristorante
9250 N. 43rd Ave.   Glendale     623-931-1810
closed Monday     Happy Hour  Tuesday - Saturday  4-7
rosarioristorante.net

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