Wednesday, August 4, 2010

This Improv Isn't Funny

     The concept at Posh restaurant is “improvisational cuisine”. I think of something improvised as being made up on the spot, done without preparation. What an exciting dining experience that would be, albeit fraught with danger for both the chef and the patrons. But don’t go to Posh expecting that. The days menu is set long before you arrive and all you get to do is check off on a printed list what proteins you dislike so they won’t be served to you. It’s disconcerting to be asked to think about food you don’t like at the beginning of a meal. Your other decision is how many courses you desire and if you want wine pairings: from $45 per person for 4 courses ($77 with wine) to $110/$165 for a full tasting, which is more than 7 courses.
     Our meal started off promisingly. We shared a nice cocktail called a Cosmonade ($9) made with Hangar 1 Citron, Chambord, and lemon. An amuse bouche of papaya sorbet with mint “caviar” was delicious (this tiny spoonful doesn’t count as a course).  My first course was an heirloom tomato salad with haricot vert and a few shavings of cheese. With something this simple  the ingredients need to shine, and these did not - the tomato, while ripe, had little flavor, and there was so little cheese it’s impact on the dish was negligible. Ken’s vichyssoise with chive oil was pleasant enough. For me, the fish course was sea bream with bok choy. The fish skin had been blasted with a propane torch which rendered it beautifully crispy. The Asian-y sauce on the vegetable was pretty salty, a harbinger of things to come. Ken received shrimp (they were called some fancy name) served with gnocchi, baby garlic, and a blastingly peppery aioli. The shrimp had been way overcooked, rendering them rubbery and tasteless. 
     On to the meat course. Mine was venison served on farro (which is an Italian whole grain), with a rhubarb gastrique. First I took a bite of meat - it was flavorful but tough. Then the farro. I gasped and almost choked. It was that salty. The insipid gastrique was totally overpowered by the other elements of the dish. Ken was kind enough to swap plates with me, and his braised short rib (hardly a seasonal dish) was at least edible, though also oversalted. Interestingly enough it was served with fingerling potatoes, making this the third dish in a row served to Ken that contained potatoes (assuming that the gnocchi had been made with them). When our waitress, cooly professional throughout, asked if we enjoyed this course, we mentioned the salt issue and she said she would inform the kitchen.
     Finally, dessert. We were both given chocolate cake, cut into unattractive chunks. Mine topped with cubes of apricot, and Ken’s with plum. Neither of these fruits complemented the cake, which contained a distractingly large amount of pepper. The drizzle of chocolate ganache was tasty. At this point we were seriously considering going to Crudo to have dessert since we needed a satisfying conclusion to the evening.
Just then our server brought us a complimentary cheese plate, an apology for the salty food. That turned out to be the high point of our experience (along with the amuse bouche). The cheese selection was excellent, and the buttery grilled bread outstanding.
But for $130 you’d expect more, wouldn’t you?
     I strongly suggest that if you want a an exceptional “tasting” experience you should visit Crudo Cafe. You even get to choose the foods you like to eat, not those you don’t.

Posh Improvisational Cuisine
7167 E. Rancho Vista Dr.   Scottsdale    480-663-7674
poshscottsdale.com
     
     

1 comment:

  1. That is really disappointing. I had heard of them, but I had never been there before. I was considering trying them out. I don't think I want to spend that kind of money on such a meal though.

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