Back in the gold rush days before the real-estate bubble burst, we went to Fiamma Restaurant in the Mondrian Hotel (or was it called the James Hotel?) for a post theater dinner. The driveway was lined with hummers, manned by twenty-somethings in their $200 jeans, all screaming for attention. It was no better inside: the noise was deafening, the service poor, the food downright bad and the prices outrageous.
How things have changed! The hotel is now The Theodore, and the parking lot, when we arrived at 6 PM on a Saturday, was deserted, as was the lobby. As, indeed was the restaurant, although by 7:30 (the hour when people more civilized than we go out to eat) several more tables were occupied. Service was outstanding, the food excellent and reasonably priced. Under Chef Comer Smith the seasonal menu is Italian, with the emphasis on local and sustainable ingredients. The pasta is made from scratch daily, and it tastes like it - toothsome and fresh. Gelato is also house-made.
The menu changes frequently and I forgot to write down the descriptions and cost of our entrees, so please forgive any errors. Ken had the special of tuna and olives in a tomato sauce with big fat spaghetti (I don’t know it’s technical name). From his first bite he raved about the quality of the pasta. The serving size was generous. I ordered braised pork shoulder with brussels sprouts served over polenta with gorgonzola ($20). The combination was divine as was the rich sauce served on it. I had read that the truffled mac & cheese ($6) was good, so I had to give it a try. At first I thought it was bland and under truffle-oiled, but after a few forkfuls I could appreciate the subtlety. I forced myself to leave a bite or two so I’d have room for dessert. Panacotta ($8) was one of the choices, and something Ken loves. It was a peach version, served atop a disc of white chocolate and accompanied by a limoncello granita. I had the intriguing sensation of being able to taste the colors. This truly is food made by a thoughtful chef.
I looked on line at some of the past menus so I could give you a few more examples of the cuisine and the prices. One of the appetizers was Polpettine Siciliano ($10): little meatballs with raisins, pinenuts, tomato sauce and baked ricotta salata. Braised Oxtail Tortellini ($17) served with tomato sugo and parmesan crema was something I have to go back and try (I think it was on our menu). Jumbo Sea Scallops ($26) with blood orange and fennel caponata didn’t sound bad either. Pizzas ($14) are made in a wood burning oven.And, of course, here’s the best part - you guessed it! - Ciello (pronounced chee-EL-oh) is on Restaurant.com.
I have to comment here about the decor of both the hotel lobby and the restaurant. If I thought Athena (see below) was over-the-top, Ciello takes the cake. Actually you feel like you’re inside a wedding cake, all white and rococo, although there is some odd rooster art left over from a previous incarnation. The mishmash of styles - huge steer heads and abstract sculptures - was a great conversation maker.
Ciello at Hotel Theodore
7353 E. Indian School Rd. Scottsdale
480-308-1131
Dinner Tuesday - Saturday 6-10
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