Centurion Redux

     Shortly after posting my entry about Centurion (see below) I received an email from chef/owner Eric Osburn stating that the had, indeed, not been in the restaurant during our lunch because someone had set fire to their fence, and he was taking care of that. We had noticed the damage on our way in. He asked that we give Centurion another try.

Since, as I said in my review, there were many intriguing things about the place, we decided to do that.

     The patio had been repaired, and even improved on, with the addition of canvas “sails” overhead to block the sun. It was 2PM, there were few customers, and we were able to have a good conversation with Eric. He’s a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park and is passionate about food. With Centurion, he wants to overturn many of the problems he’s noticed in other restaurants. He aims to be high-end, but with reasonable prices and no pretension. His kitchen is right in back of the windows looking out on Roosevelt, so the cooks don’t feel shut in. And like many chefs now, he tries to use local and sustainable products, making for a seasonal menu.

He even told me a great way to cook butternut squash - using a cider reduction and vanilla.

     The truly notable changes in our meal were with the stuffed mushrooms and the sauce that came with the mussels. Instead of being ugly lumps, the mushrooms were a work of art. They had been split, stuffed with rice, and wrapped in proscuitto. Looking like exotic oysters, they were so pretty I hated to cut into them. But I was glad I did, because this time they were perfectly cooked and delicious. The mustard sauce on the mussels was well balanced, with the flavors of mustard and white wine playing off each other. We kept soaking it up with the accompanying tasty house-made bread. I have to say I still wasn’t crazy about the eggplant panini, but it was more thoroughly cooked than the last time. I guess it’s just a matter of taste.

     Because it was Eric who served us, things went well. I’m willing to accept the fact that the staff had been upset about the fire and not functioning as well as they ordinarily would. We’ll be going back to try the dinner entrees, so I guess we’ll find out.

Centurion

214 W. Roosevelt    Phoenix

602-687-8796