It’s a brilliant concept, really, non-threatening food (brussels sprouts are probably the scariest thing on the menu) given an interesting tweak here and there to make it worthy of a night out. And judging from the crowd that showed up on a rainy Sunday evening, it’s working. The diners were a mixed bunch: lots of families with their kids, lots of singles at the community table.
Chef Justin Beckett, formerly of Canal, his wife and some friends took over the space previously occupied by That’s Italiano, a restaurant that deserved to close. They did a lovely renovation, with exposed wood beams, an open kitchen, lots of windows, and the above mentioned community table, made from a fallen black walnut tree. To put you in a good mood there’s a number of specialty cocktails, a nice wine list, and 4 draught beers, plus others by the bottle. Our server, Allison, was delightful - very funny, but also very professional.
The menu isn’t large, but it was hard to make a selection since everything sounds good. An interesting appetizer entry is Beckett’s Original Grilled Cheese served with roasted red pepper tomato soup ($9). Creamy Grits & Spicy Andouille Sausage ($8) was tempting. Ken opted to get two appetizers for his meal, the Chef’s Country Pate ($8) and those scary Roasted Brussels Sprouts with pancetta, shaved manchego cheese and lemon thyme vinaigrette ($6). I thought it strange that this was considered an appetizer. For me, the Crisp Butter Lettuce Salad, green grapes, toasted pecans, candied lemon vinaigrette ($6) and a side of Mac and Cheese ($5, as are all the side dishes including the bacon cheddar biscuits which we ordered while trying to decide on the rest of our meal). Our friend Sena decided, after much pondering, on the pork osso bucco ($17). And Leon ordered his usual hamburger - in this case the “B” Burger with Buttered Brioche, Boursin, Bib lettuce, Beefsteak tomato ($13).
So how was it? The biscuits, which arrived first were a good omen. They were more scone-like than biscuity, but they were delicious, especially with the accompanying apple honey butter. Ken enjoyed his pate, which came with lots of things to eat with it, including peanut brittle. Sena’s osso bucco was delicious, tender and rich. The only problem was that the carrots served in the roasted vegetable medley were terribly undercooked. The same was true, to a lesser extent, of the brussels sprouts plus they were pretty much tasteless. The vinaigrette on my salad was outstanding, but the grapes and pecans were in short supply. Leon said his burger was just okay, but he seems to feel that way about most of the burgers he orders. One day we’ll find him one that will knock his socks off! If anybody has any suggestions, please let me know.
The entrees didn’t live up to the biscuits, but I had high hopes for dessert ($5 each). There’s a strange one - Chocolate Dipped Bacon S’Mores with caramel, housemade marshmallow, whipped peanut butter, and graham crackers. But I had to go with the Fig & Pecan Pie which came with cream cheese and citrus zest ice cream. This was delectable, rich but not too sweet. I usually don’t like cream cheese ice cream, but this was a perfect match for the pie and the citrus zest just sung out. Loved it. Ken grumbled a little about the poor selection of tea, and the fact that there was no espresso.
All things considered, despite the negatives, I’d go back. I have the feeling that things will get better and better.
Beckett’s Table
3717 E. Indian School Phoenix 602-954-1700 (reservations are a good idea)
5 - 10PM Tuesday through Sunday
beckettstable.com
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